Blame it on Downton Abbey, the upcoming remake of The Great Gatsby or movies like The Artist and Midnight in Paris, but designers clearly didn’t leave the 20’s and 30’s glam inspirations at the ready to wear runways. For Haute Couture, Riccardo Tisci also took a cue from Art Deco era movies and twisted them in his own somber way to construct a lavish, detail-rich ten look collection.
(Click to see the collection in pictures large enough to appreciate the details. Looking at Couture without details is like seeing a 3D movie without the glasses, it loses it purpose completely. It might take a while to load but it’s worth the wait.) One of the most interesting pieces was the chocolate brown “croc puzzle” dress which was made by hand cutting crocodile skin and reassembling it scale by scale on silk tulle. Quite impressive. Other skilled pieces that included this animal’s skin were the very rock attitude cropped jackets with star motif. Shiny details were incorporated in all the looks (except the previous one) with geometric embroideries, a grid of crystals on silk washed satin and stripes of beads and paillettes on silk organza. Side zippers, fringes of crystal drops paired with luxurious tank tops proved and unusual but harmonious composition.
The silhouettes were long and slender, like in his previous couture collections whilst the colours added a certain drama with a palette of of black, white, brown, cream and bronze. Another unmissable “detail” were the models’ enormous sculptural earrings and nose rings which were another clear reminder of Tisci’s dark and twisty, brave nature.
El pasado miércoles entre la intimidad de amigos y un selecto grupo de periodistas Roberi Parra hizo una impecable presentación de su colección Spring Summer 2012. Esta vez, las prendas pudieron ser mostradas como merecían, donde los modelos, cabello y maquillaje completaron la visión del diseñador como debe ser. Eso no fue posible hace tres semanas en Venezuela In Moda, porque el tiempo y la logística no lo permitieron.
El show comenzó con un cortometraje dirigido por Marcos Durán de TFR Studio, donde Isis Malpica y Juan Carlos Expósito lucen los 16 looks en el estudio Contra la Pared. Al concluir el fashion film, salieron dos chicas y dos chicos por puertas paralelas y comenzaron a desfilar por el pequeño pasillo que abrieron los invitados para ellos:
Las piezas indicaron claramente que lo básico no tiene que ser aburrido. El diseñador se preocupó por ofrecer cortes innovadores y limpios en lino, algodón y cuero, acomodados perfectamente para favorecer la silueta. Se apegó al blanco, negro y una suave paleta de neutrales como el café y el crema. Para completar el concepto, TFR Studio maquilló la parte superior de los rostros de los modelos de blanco absoluto y utilizó sombra fucsia en la parte interna del ojo.
Roberi Parra cuenta con algo que casi nadie tiene en este país: el dominio de las bases; eso fue lo que el diseñador puso en evidencia. El secreto para el éxito en cualquier cosa en la vida es justamente ese. Los grandes no llegaron a donde llegaron solo por creatividad, se preocuparon por una ejecución perfecta antes de dar rienda suelta a sus ideas.
Roberi Parra es el vivo ejemplo de que menos es más.
For Spring Summer 2012 Roberi Parra does what he likes to call “an ode to form and function”, recreating classic utilitarian pieces with light fabrics and his unique focus on tailoring and sharp lines. He explores how certain styles surpass the barriers of gender through play with basic pieces.
The core of the collection comprising sixteen looks rests on two ideas that go hand in hand: one delves into the necessity driving people to create or modify certain garments at a given time, and how these eventually become part of the staple of modern dressing. For instance, an old military M65 field jacket that belonged to his mother inspired the structure of a men’s jackets and a lady’s day dress.
Women who embrace men’s clothing tend to be looked upon as powerful, whereas masculinity is questioned if the opposite happens. The exploration of this paradigm leads to the second idea: a men’s shirt finds its way into a woman’s wardrobe unmodified, without any adaptation to the female form whatsoever. A fold across the front of a trouser softens its masculinity, slightly evoking the form of a wrap skirt.
The male shirt is a sophisticated object. Inspired by its classic tuxedo versions, he interlined the chest to add structure and a crisp finish whist eliminating need for ironing. The intention was to simply express his pleasing to a certain classic aesthetic rather than a nostalgic recreation of a traditional piece.
Female silhouettes are fitted and elongated to floor length or shortened at the thigh. Meanwhile, lace is used to shake things up. It represents a whim of the designer to work with an element of beauty that would contrast with plain fabrics such as cotton, leather and linen abundant throughout the collection.
Colours were as austere as the shapes. The designer opted for solid tones of beige and brown and basic black and white.
With an impeccable execution of simple concepts, Roberi Parra is able to create light, functional yet beautiful garments that clearly give meaning to the notion that less is more.
– Graciela Martin
Video Lookbook Colección spring/summer 12 #11827 Cámara: Juan Manuel Acosta / Miguel Salguero Script: Carla Páez Rasquin
Fotografía Diana Baldera para Photo Chigüire Kompany en Foto Arte Estudio. Maquillaje y Cabello: TFR Studio Modelos: Isis Malpica y Juan Carlos Expósito.
I never thought chasing a fantastic jacket, would eventually lead me to meet its designer and attend his private show of his Spring Summer 2012 collection during London Fashion Week.
One summer evening in London I went with a friend to Shoreditch despite not being too crazy about looking at old smelly clothes at Brick Lane that some people like to call vintage shops. We went into a quite nice store carrying previous collections of very nice designer labels, (new clothes, just not the latest collection, no musty stuff there) and some beautifully structured garments caught my eye, they were made by a designer called Bryce Aime. I fell in love with everything instantly, specially a black sharp-shouldered jacket that made you look crazy thin. However, I was “brilliant” enough to leave it for later and when I came back the place was closed and it only opened every two months or so. I freaked out completely but luckily the people of the store gave me the designer’s studio contact details and I managed to track down and buy the jacket. I liked his work so much I talked to his PR about doing a story about him and I ended up at the designer’s Spring Summer 2012 Collection event at the Penthouse of the Mayfair Hotel.
Aime, who has already dressed Rihanna, was so busy chatting with so many people that wanted his attention, it was very hard to find a moment to talk to him. Suddenly he walks past me, stops, turns back, points and says, “hey, that jacket is mine”. He made a “come here” sign with his hand so I would join him with other friends he was talking to.
At first it struck me that he was french, I wondered why would a Frenchman come to London to do fashion. He had initially come to London to study English and later enrolled in Fine Arts at Central Saint Martins where he discovered his interest for fashion. He has worked on his own label since he graduated in 2005.
Bryce could not believe the jacket fitted me so well. He said it looked like as if it had been custom made for me. He had probably designed it for me and didn’t know it. Curiously though, this is pretty much all we talked about fashion, my initial idea was to interview him, but he is so cultured about so many topics we ended up talking about everything but clothes!
However, a designer doesn’t need to talk much about his work when the clothes do, besides talking to a designer about n’importe quoi sometimes tells you even more. Someone’s view on certain subjects can give you a better insight on their work than typical cliché (what were you inspired in?) questions. Fashion is not an isolated element, it is always in an intricate relation with it’s surroundings.
The Spring Summer 2012 collection was shown in live photoshoot at the Penthouse Suite. The models came out of the elevator and entered the room were the pictures were taken. It was a bit hard to squeeze in, but I managed to do so for a while to take a look.
The entire monochrome black and white collection was beautifully executed in architectural origami-like dresses that played with volume at the hips and shoulders while accentuating the waist. It had a very modern sense of femininity. The sheer quality of some of the materials and a chiffon skirt contrasted the rigid shapes creating a subtle balance.
Structure is always a key element in Aime’s work and looking back at past collections, I can see he’s no stranger to color and eye catching prints; however, this time around he seems to have solely focused on form and texture. Precisely his excellent treatment of form is what led me to chase that jacket in the first place. I know I’ll be chasing a lot more of his pieces in the future.
Like I always say, there is no genius like uncle Karl. These sea inspired clutches and mini bags are pure perfection; I was surprised not to see any of them in style.com’s top ten accessory list. Regardless of what they say, I’m obsessed not only with these beauties, but with the whole Chanel SS2012 collection. There is probably only room for lipstick, but with a clutch this gorgeous, who cares?
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